Ozark Mountain Region SCCA

What should I shoot for camber wise? The car is a mercury tracer (bg platform) same as Mazda mx3, mazda pro

You can find all kinds of tech setup tips online, but I'd keep a streetable alignment on the car unless you do nothing but autocross it. A lot depends on the adjustability of the suspension, as well. On strut cars, you're often stuck with the negative camber you can get. What's the current alignment, and do you daily-drive it?

Had a alignment with stock spec then I lowered the car and haven't got a alignment after that's why I was asking. But I did lower it about a two month's ago and It didn't show any bad signs of wearing the tires. I just changed them out from a 185/65/14 5in rim to a 195/60/15 6in rim. The car does seem to want to keep going the way you turn the wheel and not return. It has always had this issue since I lowered it but it seems to be worse with the wider tires I'm guessing because of more tire on the ground? Something else I have noticed after putting the new tires and wheels on is that the tires squeal a whole lot easier maybe harder tire compound? went form a Douglas 185/65/14 to hankook optimo

The squeal is probably tire-compound, possibly coupled with alignment. The reluctance to re-center could be because of goofy caster-numbers, or the car might now be so low that the rack and tierod-ends are no-longer aligned, and it's now binding (or has worn bushings in the rack or rack mounts). Really hard to say without an eyeball on the underside of the car.

Before going somewhere, you need to know where you ARE.

I have no idea of what is "stock" specs for that car, or what they are capable of reaching, or if there is anything Ford or the aftermarket has to correct any deficiencies (caster/camber plates, slotting struts, bumpsteer-kits for the tierod-ends, etc.). All these things need to be known, and thought given to what CAN be done.

The car will gain negative camber by lowering, and probably in an amount that's suitable for mixed street and autocross use. Have the car aligned to make sure.

You don't want to drive around very much on a bad alignment. Excessive toe will especially eat tires.

The most likely cause of a steering wheel that does not automatically try to return to center is caster. Won't matter for SOLO safety but might make it very difficult to catch a slide and IMHO not safe on street

K guys, the steering return is much better now I got a alignment. Camber desired is +.2 for the front and -.5 for the rear the car now has as follows...front left -1° front right-1/2° rear left -1/2° rear right +1/2° I forgot to write down the toe specs but they are well within stock spec. Toe is what I was most worried about (eating tires)

Toe was way out though so good thing I did.